655 SOUTH LINCOLN AVE / SAN BERNARDINO CA. 92408
PHONE 877-470-2975 / FAX 909-890-0703
Web address: www.globalwest.net

• 2- Rubber bushings, 1 small, 1 large OD
• 1- Flat 3 hole plate
• 1- Machined aluminum body plate
• 1- torque arm
• 1- 90-angle reinforcement brace
• 1- Steel slip collar w/attached washer
• 1- torque beam
• 1- Bolt-on forward end cap bracket
• 1 - 1-inch x 14 jam nut
• 1 - 1-inch jam nut with grease fitting
• 3 - 12mm flat washers
• 5 - 1/2 x 20 stove lock nuts
• 3 - 1/2 x 1-1/2 x 20 grade 5 bolts
• 2 - 1/2 x 1-1/4 x 20 grade 5 bolts
• 1 - 1/2 x 2 x 20 grade 5 bolt
• 4 - 1/2 split lock washers
• 1 - 7/16 x 2 fine grade 5 bolt
• 1 - seat belt spacer
• 1 - 1/2 x 1 fine grade 5 bolt
• 5 - 1/2 flat washers
• 1 - 7/16 fine thread stover lock nut
• 2 - 1/2 x 2-1/4 x 20 grade 5 bolts
• 2 - 1/2 x 1-3/4 x 20 grade 5 bolts
• 3 - 5/16 x 1-1/4 course grade 8 bolts
• 3 - 5/16 split lock washers
• 2 - 3/8 x 1-1/4 x 24 grade 5 bolts
• 5 - 3/8 x 1 x 24 grade 5 bolts
• 7 - 3/8 sae flat washers
• 7 - 3/8 x 24 stover lock nuts
• 2 - 1.250 od x 1/2 id x.187 steel spacers
• 2 - 1.250 od x 1/2 id x .312 steel washers

 Traclink requires approximately 3 hours to install. Although Traclink is considered a bolt-on device on a factory stock vehicle, it is reasonable to expect that modifications pertaining to the mufflers and exhaust pipes will be required occasionally on mass-production vehicles. This is also the situation with cars that have aftermarket exhaust systems. NOTE: Traclink should only be installed using factory upper control arms and factory control arm bushings. This model will only fit 1994 and 95 Mustang vehicles equipped with the 8.8" axles.

1. Begin installation by pulling back the carpeting on the left rear floor of the passenger compartment. The seat belt bolt on the driver's side (next to the center console) must now be replaced. Remove the bolt and install the 7/16" diameter bolt with steel spacer supplied with the kit through the seat belt eye. Tighten the seat belt bolt down tight. (View 1).
2. Elevate the vehicle; you will be required to be underneath it in order to install the kit. To properly install the kit, the vehicle must be at ride height, with the full weight on the tires. Temporarily disconnect the left exhaust pipe at the joint just ahead of the muffler and disconnect the left muffler bracket. This permits the left side exhaust to swing out of the way.
3. Locate the torque beam and the forward end cap bracket in your kit. (View 2). Slide the torque beam into position on the driver's side of the transmission tunnel starting from the rear of the vehicle. You will note that there is a tab welded in the middle of the torque beam. The torque beam indexes off this tab. Place the tab onto the new seat belt bolt, where it protrudes through the floor pan. Locate the 7/16" stover lock nut from your hardware kit. Run the nut down so that the torque beam is held in position, but do not fully tighten the nut at this time.
4. Locate the forward end cap bracket from your kit. Using a 1/2x1-1/4" bolt and split lock washer from your hardware pack, fasten the forward end cap bracket to the torque beam, but don't run the bolt all the way tight
5. Position the forward bracket up against the transmission cross member by swinging it up and pushing it flat up against bottom of the cross member. There are two holes in the forward bracket that will need to be drilled into the cross member. Drill the bottom hole first. Tighten the forward bracket to the cross member using a 1/2-20x1" bolt and stover lock nut.
6. Again using your 1/2" bit, drill the second hole in the cross member. Fasten this with a 1/2-20x2" bolt and stover lock nut. Also, tighten the 1/2" end bolt between the forward bracket and the torque beam at this time. Torque to 70 ft/lbs.
7. Proceed to the rearmost portion of the torque beam. Push the beam flat up against the car's floor pan. At this time you'll want to make sure that the carpet inside the car is pulled back and out of the way. From under the car, of the three holes in the brace, drill the middle hole into the floor pan first, using a 3/8" bit. Install one of the 3/8-24x1" bolts at this location. Push a 3/8" flat washer onto the bolt and install by sliding it from the inside of the car through the floor pan and into the brace. Use a 3/8" stover lock nut under the car and tighten down. Make sure that there is no body sealant between the head of the bolt and the floor.
8. After tightening down the middle bolt, drill the other two holes located on the beam through the floor pan. NOTE: If you use a 12" long 3/8" drill bit, you can drill the upper hole without disconnecting the drive shaft. Following the same procedure as in step 8, install the 3/8" bolts and lock nuts. Tighten down the 3/8" fasteners and tighten down the stover lock nut underneath the car at the end of the seatbelt bolt.
9. Locate the machined aluminum body plate in your kit. (View 3) Use a 1/2-20x1-1/4" bolt, lock washer, flat washer and fasten the aluminum plate to the rear of the forward brace. (You will note that there is a relief machined into one side of the aluminum plate. This identifies the backside of the plate, which goes up against the car's floor pan) Run the bolt and washer down, but do not tighten all the way. Install the angle brace onto the aluminum plate using the 3/8-24x1-1/4" bolts. Be sure to use a flat washer on the bolt and then push the bolt through the aluminum plate and into the angle brace. Use a 3/8-24-stover lock nut on the angle brace side.
10. Push the aluminum body plate up into position so that the angle brace goes flat up against the floor pan. It will index on the floor pan with the assistance provided by the angle plate. Drill one hole through the angle brace and into the car's floor pan. From the inside of the car, drop a 3/8" bolt with flat washer through the floor pan. Under the car, fasten against the angle brace using a 3/8" stover lock nut. Inside the car, make sure that there isn't any body sealant under the bolt head before tightening it down. Proceeding to the other hole in the angle plate, drill out the floor pan and fasten in the same manner. Tighten down all the 3/8" fasteners.
11. From underneath the vehicle, drill the remaining three 1/2" holes through the floor pan located in the aluminum body plate. Locate three 1/2-20x1-1/4" bolts, 12mm flat washer and 1/2" fine stover lock nuts. Using the three-hole plate provided in your kit, from inside the passenger compartment push the 1/2" bolts through the plate and the floor pan. From underneath the car fasten the plate to the car using a 12mm flat washer and 1/2" stover lock nut. Torque the three 1/2" bolts to 70 ft/lbs. Torque the 1/2" bolt between the aluminum plate and the forward beam at this time to 70 ft/lbs. Re-position the carpeting that you moved aside earlier and re-assemble. The interior is now complete.
12. Temporarily remove the rear axel cover plate bolts at the 6, 7 and 8 o'clock locations. (View 4) In your hardware pack there are three longer bolts and lock washers that will replace the original fasteners. The torque arm has a mounting plate that matches holes of the cover bolts on the axle.
13. Next remove the differential weight. It is a cast iron weight that hangs off the webbing of the differential case next to the pinion.
14. At this time the car needs to be on a drive on rack or at least have jack stands under the rear end housing so the weight of the vehicle is supported on the rear end.
15. In your kit locate the slip collar assembly that has two rubber bushings, two jam nuts, and a concave washer, remove all but one rubber bushing off the collar. Slip the collar over the torque arm stub and slide the assembly up into the large ring located on the torque beam. Use the cover plate bolts provided in your kit and position the back of the torque arm up to the differential. Slip all three bolts into place and tighten down. This slides the torque arm forward, which will provide you with the correct location for the 1/2" bolt holes you are about to drill.
16. Look at the torque beam bosses and the rear end housing. Generally you will have to fill the gap between the bosses of the traction beam and the rear end housing with steel spacers provided in the kit. Spacers are provided in the kit. It is possible different thick nesses are require from side to side. The key point to remember is to make sure that the gap between the stub end of the torque arm and the rear end has no air gap before you torque the bolts.
17. With the beam temporarily located, take a scribe and outline the two bosses of the torque arm where they contact the rear end. (Where the differential weight used to bolt on.)
18. Remove the torque arm and noting the lines you scribed. Locate the center and re-drill the rear end holes. If part of the hole interferes, you can use a grinder with a carbide burr or a rat trail file to open up the hole just far enough to position the bolt for the new centerline. The hole size is 1/2".
19. After the torque arm is fitted, it is time to install. Smear some grease inside the slip collar so that the metal bushing inside has lubrication. Place grease on the end of the torque arm stub. Slide the slip collar with the one rubber bushing on to the torque arm. Use good quality waterproof synthetic grease. (View 5)
20. Slide the torque arm assembly back up into position and fasten all three rear end cover bolts. Select the correct spacers between the rear end and torque arm and install them now filling the gap. Use the 1/2" bolts supplied in your kit with a ½ inch lock washer and flat washer. (You will find that your hardware pack supplies you with two different lengths of 1/2" bolts. Select the bolt length that goes along best with the combination of spacers that you will be using) Tighten down the bolts and torque to 70 foot-pounds. NOTE: Traclink is ride height sensitive! If you plan on changing your cars ride height in the future, you will need to re-center the stub at that time and reselect your spacers!
21. Up forward at the torque arm stub end, slide the remaining (large OD) rubber bushing onto the collar, with the step in the bushing indexing in the ring. Place the large diameter concave washer onto the collar. The concave side goes toward the rubber bushing.
22. Install the 1" jam nut and tighten it down until it bottoms on the end of the threads of the steel sleeve.
23. Install the 1" fine thread end cap with grease fitting on the collar. Tighten the end cap down until it bottoms out on the steel collar. Going back to the 1" jam nut, loosen it until it contacts the end cap. Putting a wrench on both the end cap and the 1" jam nut, tighten them against each other.
24. Re-install the exhaust. As stated earlier, this may or may not be clear-cut. Generally, if clearance is at a premium, a slight rotation of the exhaust pipe immediately ahead of the muffler and/or the muffler itself is all that is required.
25. No realignment of the front end is necessary.
26. Remove the pinion snubber as it is no longer used.
27. Quad-shock setup and brackets may also be removed. If you don't wish to do this, skip this step.
28. Lubricate Traclink bushings via its grease fitting. Do not over fill because this will cause the assembly to hydraulic. Use waterproof synthetic grease, as this will preserve the operational integrity of the bushing, providing quiet operation and long life.
29. You may have noticed an additional tab located up near the trans cross member on the forward beam. This provides an easy access mount for a drive shaft safety loop.
30. Installation is now complete.

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